My crowded shop..........                                                 

With the arrival of the wing kit, the lack of space has become critical.  The fuselage is on its side on the table, awaiting installation of the fuel lines

(not looking forward to fabricating the lines with all the exacting bends).  The parts from the wing kit are distributed about the shop, with the wing skins on a platform suspended directly above the car.  The stabilator is standing on its end leaning against the tail cone (not visible in this pic) between the car and the fuselage.  The plan is to move the tail cone and the stabilator to the attached garage and build the wings on the saw horses between the car and the fuselage.  It seems that most people build the two wings at the same time, and maybe the plans call for this, but clearly I don't have space.  One option would be to evict the car, but I can't bring myself to do that.  It has spent very few nights outside since I picked it up at the factory in Bowling Green.  The Spousal Unit (my beautiful and long-suffering wife, Karen) offered to relinquish her spot in the attached garage, but I know better than to accept that offer. 

The other slot in the attached garage is occupied by my antique, which I'm going to continue working on any day now (as I've been saying for several years -- I frequently ponder the phrase "too many irons in the fire").


Brake lines continued...                    

The forward ends of the brake lines require installation of the insert, sleeve and nut (see March 10 post) in the shop rather than in my kitchen, a result of having to thread the lines through the bulkhead grommets, which can only be done before the ends are installed.  The boiling water required for press fitting the insert into the line was accomplished with the rig shown.  A large Kronenbourg beer can, which for unknown reasons I had saved for the last 20 years, was cut in half and pressed into service as a pot (it was explained to me that the kitchen pots were not appropriate for this purpose).  I still had difficulty getting the inserts to press in all the way, even after coating them with dry Boelube.  I can't be the only builder with this problem, although I haven't heard anyone else complain about it.

 

Redneck respirator........                                                           

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Being born and raised in South Carolina, my neck is inescapably a bit pink, so I don't always  go for the most sophisticated solution to the problem at hand (part of the reason I didn't buy a Porsche).  So to avoid inhaling paint fumes, rather than opting for the Hobby Air rig (~$600), I'm using a 40-foot length of corrugated PVC attached to the mouth piece from a snorkel.  Breath in through the mouth, out through the nose, don't get out of phase.  I used this method spraying two-part epoxy on a previous project and escaped unharmed (as far as I know -- my lungs may be Cub yellow inside).  I'm using a bit of nylon hosiery on the other end to keep critters out. 
                                                                                            For the interior, I'm using rattle cans exclusively for both priming (a combination of NAPA 7220 and Rust-Oleum self-etching primer) and for the top coat (enamel).  I want a lighter color for the dark places (foot wells), so I'm applying a clear enamel over the 7220).  I want a medium-to-dark gray for the visible parts of the upper portions (roll bar, side rails, etc.), but am still unable to find anything suitable that's not a primer rather than top coat.  Since I'm going with a full interior, a lot will be covered but there's still a lot of visible metal.  I'm assuming it's OK to leave some of the hidden-from-view interior parts in primer with no top coat.

 

Why I'm making no progress.......                            

Years of abuse of my rotator cuff (tennis, lots of other sports) culminated in tearing the muscle off the bone while sqeezing hundreds of solid rivets for the airplane build.  The surgical repair (four weeks ago) involved re-attaching the muscle to the bone with dozens of plastic anchors.

The really bad part is that I have to wear the sling for six weeks, with no load being applied for ten weeks. Kinda makes it difficult to get much done on the airplane.  Being right handed, I'm having to write on the blackboard lefty, reach across to shift gears with my left hand, brush my teeth left handed, etc.  Not fun. 

Of course, it's just my luck that Van's, on April 1st, announced the availability of a product which would have prevented the shoulder damage.  Van's AN470 Rivet Spray removes the need for squeezing, bucking or pulling rivets.  This product is simply sprayed onto the rivets after they've been placed in the holes, allowed to "set" for a period of time, then, as if by magic, they form the correct shop head and you're done. ;-)

(page 27-04) Brake line fittings.........                                     

Getting the brass inserts fully inserted into the brake lines is proving to be a bit of a problem.  As instructed, I put the fittings into a pan of boiling water, then tried to press the inserts in, with results as shown.  They're about 1/16th inch away from being flush on each fitting.  I tried repeatedly, same outcome.  I'll next try adding salt to the water in an attempt to raise the boiling temperature, but my calculations show I'll get a max temperature rise of about 2 degrees C, probably not enough to matter.  We'll see.   

                                                                                

Update (4-12-13)         

 

The fuselage kit comes with two 15-foot pieces of plastic brake line.  From these, two pieces a bit under eight feet must be cut, along with various other shorter lengths.  I cut several of the shorter lengths first, and ended up unable to make the two long pieces.  One long piece must be cut from each 15-foot length.

 

Van's supplies interchangeably two slightly different kinds of tube.  One has a yellowish hue and a different 10-digit number at the end of the designation.  They're both Parker Parflex with the same dimensions.  The one with an ending number of 006125903 was much easier to get the inserts into (see above).  When I reordered the line, I tried unsuccessfully to specify that one.  The lady at the desk showed only one part number.  I'm hoping for the best. 

(page 26-03) Seat backs and interior paint........                                             

I wish everything went as smoothly as this section.  The only distasteful part was match drilling the piano hinges, but even this was OK.  The piano hinges allow for some limited adjustment of the seat back angles.  The seating position in the -12 is much more upright than I would choose, the ideal being something similar to the La-Z-Boy I currently occupy.  Cars, airplanes, or chairs, I like to recline.

After hanging the pedals I realized I should have painted everything down there prior to the hanging (which I will under no circumstances undo).  I had primed most of it with NAPA 7220, but no top coat.  I'd like to use a medium gray for all the visible bits of aluminum in the interior, but have been unable to find this in a rattle can.  My current plan is to top coat the 7220 with clear enamel, which is what I did for the seat backs.

The orange stuff seen in the piano hinges at the top is .090-inch string from a string trimmer, placed there to prevent paint from getting into the hinges.  Oddly, it wouldn't fit into the other hinges even though the rod extracted from the hinges measures the same for all hinges (.088 inch).  I must investigate this.

(page 27-02) revisited                                                             

Using the new pedal alignment method worked much better for the match drilling, and I wish I'd used it for all four.  Reiterating, I clamped the torque tube to the rudder pedal as per the build manual, but rather than match drilling the #30 holes completely through on each side, followed by the #12 and 1/4 inch bits, I used the pilot holes in the rudder pedals to "mark" the torque tubes by lightly inserting the spinning #30 bit.  I marked the relative position of the torque tubes and the rudder pedals with a sharpie, then moved the whole thing to the drill press and match drilled all the holes.  It was easy to maintain the alignment by looking at the sharpie marks.  Worked great.

Assembling the nylon blocks around the tubes and bolting the whole assembly to the nutplates on the shelf was not easy but succumbed to a little of persistent effort.  I taped everything together with blue painter's tape, which held until I started the bolts with my fingers.  The brake cylinders were installed before mounting the whole rig to the shelf.

Skipping now to the seat backs before installing the brake lines.

(page 27-02) Rudder pedals and brakes...............            

Skipping from 23-04 to section 27 allows installation of the pedals and associated plumbing without having to reach around the side skins.  This situation has occurred several times where it seems advantageous to do things out of order with the build manual and it always leaves me wondering if I'm missing something which will later bite me.  The various steps for the trial fitting and assembly are easily understandable and fun with one notable exception: maintaining the proper orientation of the parts while match-drilling the steel tubes.  The picture shows the assembly in the proper orientation which it will assume when suspended from the firewall shelf.  It's put together and drilled upside down, with the assembly resting on the bolt heads through the nylon blocks.  In that orientation, the brake pedals are supposed to be clamped so that they are vertical.  Problem is, it's hard to keep them that way while match drilling (first #30, then #12, finally 1/4 inch) through the steel tubes.  The top of the pedal on the far right ended up a bit too far aft.  I'm attempting a fix by slotting the hole with a rat-tail file, then filling in the opposite edge of the hole with weld material, thereby moving the hole circumferentially.  After being spoiled by drilling so much aluminum, drilling steel is a challenge.

[Update:  After pondering the situation, I decided to abandon the fix described above.  I ordered a new pedal and torque tube from the Mothership and, rather than match-drilling in place as described in the build manual, will do the drilling in v-blocks on the drill press.  The plan is this:  Install the new parts on the assembly as before (positioned upside down from what's shown), using the pilot holes in the pedals, mark where the holes go in the torque tube, then take the two parts to the drill press and complete the drilling.]