PAP Section G6: First engine start

Before the first engine start, a procedure must be followed which purges air bubbles from nooks and crannies, and most notably the valve lifters, throughout the engine.  This is accomplished by removing the spark plugs to allow easy engine rotation, removing the oil return line at the oil tank and providing a clean container to collect any oil which makes it that far, and turning the prop vigorously until a 40 psi reading shows on the pressure readout in the cockpit.  This causes the oil pump to move oil from the tank throughout the engine and back to the now-disconnected tank return line (maybe).  The instructions say that this may take 40 - 60 revolutions of the prop.  As with all things these days, many Ewe-Tube (they're a bunch of sheep, but that's another story) videos exist showing this process.  The best I found is here.

This process can be sped up by capping the oil tank overflow line and pressurizing the oil tank to 10 psi with an air source before turning the prop.  It is claimed that this step is optional and simply speeds things up.  My friend and ace Light Sport mechanic Bill Snodgrass had done this procedure before and had fabricated a rig to facilitate this.  We first tried it without the air pressure and couldn't produce any reading on the oil pressure gage by turning the prop.  With the air pressure, however, we quickly saw an oil pressure of 55 psi and declared it done.  No oil made it to the catch container but Bill said this is normal in his experience.

After the purge, I did a normal "burp" of the system, which is done before every engine start with a Rotax.  This being a dry sump oiling system, oil which leaves the crank shaft, rods and rockers and accumulates in the crank case must be returned to the oil tank.  This is done in a novel way: rather than using a pump the way race cars do, blow-by from the piston rings pressurizes the oil, forcing it back to the oil tank.  After the engine is run and shut down, oil is left in the crank case, making it impossible to check the oil level in the oil tank.  With the engine off and the cap off the oil tank, the prop is rotated in the normal direction until the distinct sound of a flushing toilet is heard, indicating that the oil is now back in the tank and ready to be checked.

Now it's show time.  With my ex-fireman friend Chad Rennicke, complete with fireman's hat, manning the fire extinguisher, I inclined my head a few degrees and said a silent prayer that I had hooked everything up right -- all the wiring, gas line fittings, oil line fittings -- then turned the ignition key for the first time.  It cranked immediately, oil pressure came up, gages looked good, relief flooded over me, then it quit!  Instantly I knew I had forgotten to turn the fuel valve on.  This done, it fired back up and ran great.  No fire, no smoke, no funny sounds.

Incredibly, after working on this airplane since 2011, I feel for the first time that I'm within sight of the end of the build.  I'm ready to fly.

PAP Section G4: Measuring fuel flow from the electric pump

It was with fear and trepidation that I poured four gallons of fuel into the tank for the first time, exposing the entire system -- all the fittings from the tank to the engine and back to the tank -- to gasoline.  I had tested the tank itself when I first built it back in North Carolina (see earlier post detailing that particular Klöster Föken), but the rest of system had never seen fuel, much less pressurized fuel.  When I first added the fuel, I did so with the fuel valve in the cockpit closed, limiting the gasoline to about half the fittings with gravity. providing the only pressure (~0.5 psi).  All appeared well.  I then opened the cockpit valve.  Seemed OK. When I switched on the pump, however, I immediately had a leak which I eventually traced to the fitting going to the fuel flow meter.  Tightening this seems to have fixed it.

For the actual measurement of the flow rate, the manual says to remove the fitting at the gascolator outlet, slip a 5/16-inch fuel hose over the fitting, turn on the pump and measure the time required to pump one gallon into a gas can at waist level.  The time is not to exceed 180 seconds.  

The first problem with this scheme is that without completely removing the bottom cowl, which involves detaching the oil heat exchanger from the cowl (a major PITA), the fuel fitting must be accessed from above.  I did remove the piano hinge wires from the lower cowl, allowing it to swing down a few inches with the oil cooler still attached.  With the new RV-12s, the oil cooler is no longer attached to the cowl, eliminating this headache.

The second problem is that a 5/16-inch fuel line doesn't come close to fitting.  The male threads on the fitting measure about 0.55 inch, so a 1/2-inch line fits well.  I used a short segment of 1/2-inch, a right-angle fitting, then the rest 5/16-inch.  The right-angle fitting made it possible to hook it up from above.

The time required to pump one gallon was 170 seconds.  Next up is doing the purge process to get the air out of the oil lines and lifters, burp it, and start the engine!

I recently returned from my 36th pilgrimage to Oshkosh.  The big news at the show was the final publication of MOSAIC, the long-awaited update to the rules governing Light Sport aircraft and Sport Pilots.  It's simple now: any aircraft with a clean stall speed, Vs1, of 59 knots or less can be flown by a person holding a Sport Pilot certificate.  All of Van's airplanes with the exception of the RV-10 qualify.  No medical.  Retractable gear with a variable-pitch prop: check.  Wanna fly a 182 or a Stearman?  You're good.