(page 27-02) revisited
Using the new pedal alignment method worked much better for the match drilling, and I wish I'd used it for all four. Reiterating, I clamped the torque tube to the rudder pedal as per the build manual, but rather than match drilling the #30 holes completely through on each side, followed by the #12 and 1/4 inch bits, I used the pilot holes in the rudder pedals to "mark" the torque tubes by lightly inserting the spinning #30 bit. I marked the relative position of the torque tubes and the rudder pedals with a sharpie, then moved the whole thing to the drill press and match drilled all the holes. It was easy to maintain the alignment by looking at the sharpie marks. Worked great.
Assembling the nylon blocks around the tubes and bolting the whole assembly to the nutplates on the shelf was not easy but succumbed to a little of persistent effort. I taped everything together with blue painter's tape, which held until I started the bolts with my fingers. The brake cylinders were installed before mounting the whole rig to the shelf.
Skipping now to the seat backs before installing the brake lines.
Complete documentation of the construction of my RV-12 airplane kit from Van's Aircraft. The methods and procedures described herein are not necessarily correct or official. This is simply how I'm building my airplane. Click any picture for expanded view.
Sunday, February 17, 2013
Monday, February 4, 2013
(page 27-02) Rudder pedals and brakes...............
Skipping from 23-04 to section 27 allows installation of the pedals and associated plumbing without having to reach around the side skins. This situation has occurred several times where it seems advantageous to do things out of order with the build manual and it always leaves me wondering if I'm missing something which will later bite me. The various steps for the trial fitting and assembly are easily understandable and fun with one notable exception: maintaining the proper orientation of the parts while match-drilling the steel tubes. The picture shows the assembly in the proper orientation which it will assume when suspended from the firewall shelf. It's put together and drilled upside down, with the assembly resting on the bolt heads through the nylon blocks. In that orientation, the brake pedals are supposed to be clamped so that they are vertical. Problem is, it's hard to keep them that way while match drilling (first #30, then #12, finally 1/4 inch) through the steel tubes. The top of the pedal on the far right ended up a bit too far aft. I'm attempting a fix by slotting the hole with a rat-tail file, then filling in the opposite edge of the hole with weld material, thereby moving the hole circumferentially. After being spoiled by drilling so much aluminum, drilling steel is a challenge.
[Update: After pondering the situation, I decided to abandon the fix described above. I ordered a new pedal and torque tube from the Mothership and, rather than match-drilling in place as described in the build manual, will do the drilling in v-blocks on the drill press. The plan is this: Install the new parts on the assembly as before (positioned upside down from what's shown), using the pilot holes in the pedals, mark where the holes go in the torque tube, then take the two parts to the drill press and complete the drilling.]
Skipping from 23-04 to section 27 allows installation of the pedals and associated plumbing without having to reach around the side skins. This situation has occurred several times where it seems advantageous to do things out of order with the build manual and it always leaves me wondering if I'm missing something which will later bite me. The various steps for the trial fitting and assembly are easily understandable and fun with one notable exception: maintaining the proper orientation of the parts while match-drilling the steel tubes. The picture shows the assembly in the proper orientation which it will assume when suspended from the firewall shelf. It's put together and drilled upside down, with the assembly resting on the bolt heads through the nylon blocks. In that orientation, the brake pedals are supposed to be clamped so that they are vertical. Problem is, it's hard to keep them that way while match drilling (first #30, then #12, finally 1/4 inch) through the steel tubes. The top of the pedal on the far right ended up a bit too far aft. I'm attempting a fix by slotting the hole with a rat-tail file, then filling in the opposite edge of the hole with weld material, thereby moving the hole circumferentially. After being spoiled by drilling so much aluminum, drilling steel is a challenge.
[Update: After pondering the situation, I decided to abandon the fix described above. I ordered a new pedal and torque tube from the Mothership and, rather than match-drilling in place as described in the build manual, will do the drilling in v-blocks on the drill press. The plan is this: Install the new parts on the assembly as before (positioned upside down from what's shown), using the pilot holes in the pedals, mark where the holes go in the torque tube, then take the two parts to the drill press and complete the drilling.]
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